Labuan Bajo's sweet sunset to Gili Kelor's adrenaline taste

Sunset from a rooftop restaurant in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

From clear blue sky covering dry savannas on the top of rugged hillsides to stunning sunset on its more muted orange sky. Nusa Tenggara Timur's volcanic islands also welcomed me with their brilliant white and pink sandy beaches after blue waters. It was such precious experience to pamper my eyes. I had to say that wow factor of seeing natural landscape and wild sea life in eastern part of Indonesia has always been the draw card for the Jakarta dweller me. And what's more exciting was that I spent my July's two-night trip on a wooden boat, cruising under the black-pitted sky full of stars. What a cool experience to blend with the nature.

A beach line at the fisherman village in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

A beach line at the fisherman village in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

A beach line at the fisherman village in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

And here is how it started. My three-day/two-night boat tour to Taman Nasional Komodo was set in a private tour with six female travelers in a group. A bit similar with how I arranged to Whale-shark point in Pulau Derawan, Kalimantan Timur.

Because when talking about traveling cost to spend, having a trip to Komodo National Park, Nusa Tenggara Timur from Jakarta, even after I shared cost with other five travelers through a shared trip and get a promo airplane ticket from this year's Garuda Travel Fair (GATF), was still expensive. Blame it to my country's rupiah (IDR) exchange rate and low purchasing power I have! Or should I say, "If I have had high monthly income, I wouldn't have financially suffered like this?"

A seashell on a rock near fisherman village in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Knowing my financial condition, I opt to share cost whenever I arrange a trip to wonderful eastern part of Indonesia. The absence of mass transportation system in Indonesia's vast lands and waters make the transportation fee high because travelers must rent private car and motorboat to transfer from one point to another point in the region.

My long-awaited Pulau Komodo's trip coordinator, a friend of my acquaintance and a hardcore selfie-taking instagrammer, was enthusiastic enough to help the other five of us booking a return flight ticket of Cengkareng-Labuan Bajo-Cengkareng at Garuda Travel Fair (GATF) and hotel room a night each before and after our short sailing trip on Flores Sea as well as closing deals with the tour operator namely Dino Trip Komodo choosing "Live on Board" as their tagline.

A green window of a local inn in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

A green and a red windows of a local inn in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

However, my first mini sailing adventure only began the day after I arrived in Labuan Bajo because my trip coordinator was badly in need of sleep after forcing herself to watch World Cup's soccer match broadcast early morning despite knowing it left her little time to rest before our morning flight from Jakarta on the same day. So, after our hotel check-in, she and her roommate locked themselves in their air-conditioned room and slept until close in the evening while me and my roommate, actually because of little coincidence, explored around the area.

At first, my roommate and I simply wondered where did a solemn Muslim's praying call come from, so we followed an alley not too far from our hotel and found a yellow painted mosque in the neighborhood. We didn't have any particular curiosity towards something in the neighborhood, instead we let ourselves follow where the wind blew et voilà we arrived at a nearby fisherman village.

A local little girl helping her mom carrying clean water in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

During our stroll at that decent neighborhood below the sun and clear sky, we passed little kids who put big white plastic container full of drinking water on their right shoulder as part of their effort to help their moms who also brought similar thing. "Look at me, I'm a wonder woman," said a little kid softly whose face looked so proud because she was strong enough walking with a heavy water container on her shoulder. I sought permission to that little girl's mom to take her picture. The little girl unconditionally obeyed her mom.

From the laughter I made with some locals I met that afternoon while exploring Labuan Bajo's fisherman village, I sensed warm welcome I received from them on my first day in a place of about two hours direct flight from Jakarta.

A local inn with bricks and colorful windows in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

A little girl in pink passed an inn with colorful window (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

My roommate and I then continued our little walk and reached the shore full of fishermen's parked wooden boats. There I could also smell the stench from fish that were dried naturally in the sun. We walked a little farther, suddenly my roommate found a spot for snapping photos. After some poses and short stop at a vendor stall for some tasty sweet fried bananas, we headed back to our hotel to end our afternoon's impulsive strolling.

But we didn't rest in our room instead we headed to Beta Bajo hotel's rooftop restaurant on the fifth floor, Bistronomy Komodo, waiting for Labuan Bajo's sunset. To my surprise, As I arrived at the restaurant, in my personal view, its interior design claimed to mimic Parisian restaurant, honestly distracted my eyes. I couldn't stand with its interior setting. Definitely not a Parisian taste. I chose the corner area and backed the interior design so it was out of my sight.

Sunset from a rooftop restaurant in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Because of my habit, I sat on a comfy sofa by the restaurant's balcony glass facing Labuan Bajo's vast sea together with its sole harbor that were blackened little by little by the lost of sunlight. Labuan Bajo's sky took on shades of orange as the sun crawled down below the horizon and the sunset eventually closed the day and welcomed the night. Ships and boats that were docked at the harbor began to lighten and when local houses joined to turn on their outdoor lamps, from above the rooftop restaurant, as if there were many small sparkling bulbs of fireflies on a dark ground below. My smartphone's black locked screen mode reflected the semblance of my smiling lips. I realized that watching sunset was a genuine romantic experience.

Sunset from a rooftop restaurant in Labuan Bajo (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Late in the afternoon, the other four travelers joined us to enjoy the sunset. Different with me who loved the silence while fully enjoyed the surrounding, sunset and latte coffee sipping, the rest of the pack kept talking about anything. We chatted and laughed of nothing by the time we're having our popular Japanese cuisine dinner there. I joined the conversation sometimes but mostly chose to be a good listener. I more enjoyed with my own thoughts.

We finished our dinner and wished to explore the area at night, apparently my other five travelers knew nothing on what to explore. I once read an old article talking about a cafe in Labuan Bajo which Jakartans suggested to come so I told them about this.

A pack of La Bajo Coffee with traditional Manggarai woven cloth behind (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Even though having coffee at night was a weird choice, I thought, but our limited stay in Labuan Bajo made me proposing to hang around a bit at La Bajo Coffee to close our first day.

It was only a five-minute walk from our hotel but I firstly stopped at a nicely decorated bookshop along the way to the coffee shop to buy a postcard. As I entered that tiny shop after leaving my flip-flops outside, inside it showcased row of small souvenirs, secondhand English novels and some postcards. All six of us then had a look into what the shop offered and finally bought some small gifts to bring home. Before I left, I asked the kind shopkeeper lady to take her picture and with her bright smile, she was consent to pose for me with her shop interior as her background.

A friendly shopkeeper in Labuan Bajo posed for me (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

We continued our small walk while chattering, heading to the coffee shop. La Bajo Coffee selects simple atmosphere, featuring coffee-themed brown layer hues to decorate its inner space while parting its veranda for smokers' seating and live music show. Their interior walls are adorned with some traditional Flores arts, painted brown vintage-style map and "You Can't Buy Happiness. But You Can Buy Coffee. And That's Pretty Close" quote in black paint brushed on its white wall. They fill their seating area with minimalist wooden chairs and tables, armchairs provided in the corner. They also have built-in wooden shelves stocked with ceramic latte cups with shop's logo and small-to-medium weight coffee powder in paper pack, which is good for souvenir to bring home.

An interior at La Bajo Coffee cafe (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

A diver swims towards the coffee (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

I'm not a coffee expert nor a coffee enthusiast but I'm sure I always enjoy sipping a cup of coffee with milk and little sugar. But that night, I chose to have traditional bitter Flores coffee without milk or creamer which I didn't regret at all. The live music on the veranda was the only thing that made me unhappy. On the other hand, my travel mates spent time there to take some pictures and those with popular instagram accounts took even more pictures with various poses at every corner so they could upload them in their social media accounts.

I was fine with my coffee and my travel mates were satisfied with their snaps, finally tired, we decided to go back to our hotel, saying goodnight and sleep to welcome the morning.

A cup of traditional bitter Flores coffee (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

A vintage map as part of interior at La Bajo Coffee cafe (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Now begin the charm of some beautiful Flores' islands    

My first day's mini sailing journey began at Labuan Bajo port in the morning. At about 9 AM local time, on Friday, I headed to Gili Kelor. The initial itinerary handed to travelers beforehand scheduled Gili Kanawa and Manta Point as the first two sites I would have visited during the packaged Kepulauan Komodo's short live-on-board trip I chose. However, the sea route to Gili Kanawa had much higher than usual waves that Friday forcing my boat to change its direction and head to Gili Kelor instead, about two hours boat ride from Labuan Bajo. Sadly, the same excuse was used demanding me to let go our plan to Manta Point site.

Off I go to Gili Kelor with a white painted wooden boat (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Off I go to Gili Kelor with a white painted wooden boat (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Sweet ripe bananas accompanying my sailing trip (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

On my way to the island, I sat on the edge of the deck succumbing myself to the beautiful Flores' deep blue sea and afar mountainous landscape covered in dried grass in the start of Indonesia's dry season. Isolating myself alone from the chattering group, I sat on the deck hanging my feet down and let splash of sea water touched the sole of my feet once in a while from that bobbing boat on the sea. The wide clear blue sky accessorized with white clouds above added the nice sense I had been feeling since the beginning of my journey.

"We're here," said the local tour guide informing me who almost asleep because of soft breeze gently caressing my face. (Gili Kelor exterior) The wooden boat parked few meters away from the shore, fearing it damaged corals around the island, boat crew prepared small speedboat as a bridge to reach the island.

Gili Kelor (2018), a private photo by Nilufar

The beach at Gili Kelor 2018, a private photo by Nilufar 

Gili Kelor (2018), a private photo by Nilufar

Gili Kelor in dry season having rugged terrain with almost no tress, made it so evident that it was one of the driest locations in Indonesia. The appeal of Gili Kelor might be in its white sand beach jutting into the sea when viewed from above. I personally felt that its appeal was on its dangerous trek that tickled my adrenaline. 

Previous tourists said trekking route on Gili Kelor was the shortest one among all tracks from three popular treks in Kepulauan Komodo's tour package. Still I spent twenty minutes to reach the peak of island's limestone cliff notorious with steep, slippery and sandy trekking steps. 

Gili Kelor (2018), a private photo by Nilufar

Gili Kelor (2018), a private photo by Nilufar

Going up to the hill with efforts in the blazing hot noon, I made it to the top, and thanked to God I was still alive and safe, and that even made the sea scenery I saw from the tip of island's hill as a definitely top-notch.

"Ladies, we should get back to our boat now," said the skinny tour guide in his hoodie. "If we spend too much time up here, we can't give chunk of our time to the other two sites today."

Heading down to slippery slope was inevitable. Half of my way down, I decided to rest my body weight on my hands and bottoms, carefully slide myself down on that sandy trek. Some European tourists did the same, only those local tour guides who were able to go down fast, running with their bare feet. "It's more dangerous than what I thought," an Australian guy told himself when he rested a minute before carefully continued going down.

Gili Kelor (2018), a private photo by Nilufar

Gili Kelor (2018), a private photo by Nilufar

I headed back to our boat and the crew had prepared full course of meals for my lunch that sunny day. It was unfortunate I didn't get a chance to snorkel in Gili Kelor because I spent too much time up in the hill, I told myself. I wasn't supposed to think that deep and just enjoyed my lunch to calm my hungry tummy. After this, just prepare for my next activity in the island. 

Off I go to Manjarite with a white painted wooden boat (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Another islands in Komodo Islands I passed when heading to Manjarite (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

The second venue of the day was Manjarite snorkeling spot. When the boat dropped its anchor, I geared up with my own swimming suit and snorkels to go for a cursory look around the water area. I was so ready with my first day's aqua excursion but I was forced to shy away from that typical touristy activity because once I jumped to the shore, salty sea water hurt my eyes and I lost control over myself making myself almost drown. Apparently, I put my snorkeling mask wrong so sea water allowed to sting my eyes.

A seashell seen under clear water of Gili Kelor beach (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

I went up with efforts to the wooden bridge, regrettably canceled my plan to snorkel and just sat on the edge of the wooden bridge for the rest of the day. I was so frustrated to myself. From there, I could only see Manjarite snorkeling spot full of starfish from above the bridge. It was easy to spot many chocolate chip sea stars spreading around in the shallow water of sandy surface as they were big enough to notice among green algae. I sat on the bridge with sad face while looking into chocolate chip-studded starfish.

A chair on the second floor of the boat where I sometimes sat on (2018)
private photo by Nilufar 

An uninhabited island in Komodo Islands I passed when heading to Manjarite (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

I could have asked the local tour guide to help me snorkeling the area but as he went up after helping two tour participants snorkeling, I noticed his shivering body dealing with cold after some time inside the water. I told myself, "He needs to warm his body soon and it's impossible to force him to be in the water for much longer. His body won't make it. How can I risk someone else's life for my own selfishness?"

Off I go to Gili Rinca with a white painted wooden boat (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

The day had almost ended, only few minutes before day's sunset when I headed to Kepulauan Komodo's smaller island namely Gili Rinca to see wild Komodo dragons. Because of my running-out-of-time, I could not even get a chance to fully finish the provided shortest trek from Loh Liang's ticketing booth. Luckily, I found two female Komodo dragons laid down lazily few meters from the ticketing booth. A smaller Komodo dragon baby was also caught in sight as I followed and walked behind the appointed ranger in the trekking course.

Finally! Encountering (lazy, uninterested) Komodo dragons in Gili Rinca (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

"Oh another noisy tourists, huh?" said the Komodo dragon ha ha ha (2018)
private photo by Nilufar 

"It's mating season and I'm hoping a strong and handsome male Komodo dragon. Not these noisy tourists," complained Komodo dragon's rival (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Gili Rinca, a private photo by Nilufar (2018)

My other five travel mates didn't find trekking and encountering Komodo dragons further in the wild as amusing as I felt so I had to give up, stop halfway and called it a day not too far from where I met those Komodo dragons. I stood still and found myself in a much unsatisfied state knowing that the major cause we couldn't continue our trekking course was to wait instagrammers taking bunches of their photos to be uploaded into their instagram accounts. 

Sadly, I could not go on with my own and risk myself to be eaten by hungry wild Komodo dragons from out of no where, as warned by the senior Komodo ranger.

A camel-look alike dead tree in Gili Rinca (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Gili Rinca, a private photo by Nilufar (2018)

The getting darker day forced me to head back to the wooden boat where I could clean myself a bit and had my dinner.

Stars above the dark sky and fairly strong night wind accompanied my dinner on the dock that first night on the cruising boat. By this too, I finished my trip of the first day and still had another night to spend. 

My second day began with the sunrise at Gili Lawa.

Row of colorful plastic clothes' pins on the boat (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

A row of bull's head skulls at Gili Rinca (2018)
private photo by Nilufar

Soon, my some more Komodo Islands travel diary:
Gili Padar's breathtakingly beautiful scenery, romantic sunrise in Gili Lawa and Waerebo's mist and milky way