Evening stroll alone in Gyeongju, early morning too
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyeongju's Rape Flower Complex, Oct. 28, 2017) |
An autumn walk in Gyeongju's flower garden of Cheomseongdae Observatory site before that late afternoon's darkness was a gratifying experience. There was an elegant calming atmosphere in the surrounding of the garden close to the dusk like appreciating a beautiful painting full of cheerful colors from flowers tuned down proportionately with grayish background. As the sun went down and lost from my sight, Cheomseongdae Observatory and Donggung Palace showed me their best sight at night when they were lit in the dark. I arrived in the city at the right time.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyeongju's Rape Flower Complex, Oct. 28, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyeongju's Rape Flower Complex, Oct. 28, 2017) |
Before setting my feet in Gyeongju, the leaf peeper me enjoyed classic leafy views of autumn seen from my comfortable seat by the window during a three-hour air-conditioned bus trip from Jeonju Intercity Bus Terminal to Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal. Along the way, there was a sentimental feeling when I leaned my head on the bus window witnessing rain drops at the beginning of afternoon's drizzle. In autumn, it's time for sweater weather than strikingly hot summer. I even considered red ivy vines spreading wildly on the toll road concrete wall I saw during my road trip offered its own sweet combination of romance.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyeongju's Rape Flower Complex, Oct. 28, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyeongju's Rape Flower Complex, Oct. 28, 2017) |
Back to where I was having my promenade at Gyeongju's Rape Flower Complex, located within walking distance from Blue Boat Hostel, about 20-minute local bus ride taken from Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyeongju's Rape Flower Complex, Oct. 28, 2017) |
Gyeongju has a radiant flower field of bright yellow canola blossoms and fully bloomed pink lotus covered its famous pond in spring, not in the autumn. Those lotus leaves were turning brown when I took a stroll in the park. A recent snap of wintry weather gave a chance for other beautiful wild flowers to take the center stage.
The site has always been a popular one among the local tourists, mostly couples or family with kids. As for myself that afternoon, I put my high interest towards the flowers. Satisfied taking pictures of beautiful flowers, I then continued to see Cheomseongdae Observatory.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Cheomseongdae Observatory, Oct. 28, 2017) |
"A bizarrely look of a bottle palm's large swollen trunk," was what I had in mind when seeing Cheomseongdae Observatory with my own eyes. "What's so great of this giant man-made form?" I didn't find it artistically unique. A photo of beautiful long exposure star trails behind the illuminated Cheomseongdae Observatory shot at night became my main reason to see this Asia's oldest existing cylinder-shaped astronomical observatory constructed during the reign of Queen Seon-deok. But in reality, that's not what I had in front of me and I was a bit disappointed.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Cheomseongdae Observatory with purple illumination, Oct. 28, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Cheomseongdae Observatory with fuhscia illumination, Oct. 28, 2017) |
However, a person with great interest to astronomy and history should not miss visiting this site when in Gyeongju. In terms of construction, the 9.17 meter high observatory beautifully combined straight lines and curves with the base stone measuring 5.35 meter on each side. It also consists of 27 levels. Star observation determines the Vernal Equinox, Autumnal Equinox, Winter Solstice, Summer Solstice and the astronomical solar year, said the Korean tourism website.
I bet he wouldn't find himself as disappointed as me. Rather than just stared awkwardly towards it, a typical tourist like me perhaps would have found the site more interesting when giving a chance to operate this ancient star observatory so could've experienced how Queen Seon-deok's astronomers made their observations on astronomical, meteorological and natural phenomenon that time. Still it's the popular spot for local tourists to take a picture with Cheomseongdae Observatory as the background.
I tried my best to finally get good angle to shoot that historical construction. I thought now it was fine to head to another site. I left the observatory and walked in about fifteen minutes to reach Anapji Pond.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, Oct. 28, 2017) |
Anapji was the name bestowed to the present Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond here in Gyeongju. In the era of King Munmu, the pond in the palace was flourished with beautiful flowers and chirping birds.
I found some birds flew above my head, landed on the grassy land to feed themselves with grains or seeds on the ground but without any bird sound. I didn't find any single flower, unfortunately. The ground was green vast with adequate path way to the pavilions.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, Oct. 28, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, Oct. 28, 2017) |
Pavilions, showcasing miniature of historic relics excavated from the site, offer an insight to Buddhist art and everyday life in Silla before the reign fell.
I found myself more interested in the sight of the pavilions when they were illuminated, so nice though it took a little bit of extra effort to place myself where I could have the sight without the distraction of people disturbing my photo. The illuminated pavilions are always popular with local tourists.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, Oct. 28, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, Oct. 28, 2017) |
Korea Tourism Organization (KTO), the agency responsible in attracting international visitors to the country, labels Gyeongju as a "museum without walls." Blanketed by Silla Dynasty's ancient landmarks, many artifacts and landscape integrated with timeworn relics, the city has gained its UNESCO World Cultural Heritage title.
The air turned so cold now and after taking some proper pictures about those well-known pavilions, I considered myself to end my short trip that evening.
Anapji Pond and Donggung Palace finally marked the end of my first day in Gyeongju so no wonder my tummy wanted food as it also reached dinner time. Luckily, I found a street vendor selling Korean grilled chicken skewers on my way back from there. That popular Korean street food is called dakkochi apparently.
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| Having dakkochi on my way back to my hostel. Nilufar's private photo (street vendor near Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, Oct. 28, 2017) |
While having my grilled chicken skewers, two young Korean lovers who bought different snack at the same street vendor offered me scissors finding myself having difficulty eating dakkochi. They taught me how to enjoy it in Korean style. I should cut the stick as I finished the upper part down to the lower part, also ideally I had to take the paper glass provided at the stall and have free hot broth accompanying the grilled chicken. I should drink it by turns after biting dakkochi. It didn't take me too much time finishing my dakkochi so I left the stall. I thanked the couple and said, "Good-bye, have a lovely evening for you two!"
Sunday morning
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Early morning, last night's crowded road was still slumbering. The air was very cold that morning but I only had thin clothes so I rubbed my arms to keep my body warm. I passed the talked-about Starbucks coffee shop. The coffee shop has traditional Korean roof and heard that they also design their interior with Korean traditional touch including providing ondol seats. However, I declined to have a coffee inside because I just had one cup from the guest house.
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| Passing Starbucks Coffee shop early morning. Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Passing Starbucks Coffee shop early morning. Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
It took me about ten minutes walk to reach Gyochon Traditional Village after passing Daereung ancient tomb and that traditional designed popular American coffee shop retail.
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| Daereung ancient tomb. Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Daereung ancient tomb. Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
I enjoyed myself rambling the traditional village alone in the cold morning breeze passing many line-ups of hanok at Gyochon. The village was still in slumber. I best avoided jam-packed alleys with local tourists and their sound of laughter or chattering in the afternoon because I considered them marring my serene appreciation towards the traditional village. How selfish dominating the village very early in the morning but I couldn't help myself.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
A tourist's review in a blog saw Gyochon Traditional Village as a door into Korea's traditional life in the past where traditional quilting or nubi, pottery and glass workshop centers with real masters fill out the village. Kids, on the playground, are also entertained with traditional games. They can be part of the ones cheerfully playing traditional games like neolttwigi (seesaw jumping), gulleongsoe (hoop rolling) and tuhonori (arrow throwing).
I stayed out of the crowd, it was just not my thing.
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| Chalbori-ppang I bought to taste. Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Other than enjoying myself with traditional Korean atmosphere in Gyeongju, I also treated my mouth and tummy well. Two Gyeongju's specialties I had a chance to taste were chalbori-ppang and gyori gimbap. Chalbori-ppang consists of two small-sized round Korean confection of glutinous barley bread with red bean paste filling. While gyori gimbab is a Korean dish made from cooked rice, cucumber, imitation crab meat, and full of egg strips rolled in seaweed dried sheets. Gyori gimbab from Gyochon Traditional Village is the most popular one. There is always a long line-up early in the morning before the store opens. I made myself lined up too to buy this gyori gimbab.
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| The famous gyori gimbab from Gyeongju. Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
The reason was simple. I was so hungry after having coffee only for my breakfast at my guesthouse so why not filling my tummy with that popular gimbab. Finding this famous gimbap restaurant was actually an accident when I was curious finding a long queue by the time I wandered around at Gyochon and asked one of the locals who was lining up. "It's gimbab and famous," he said with his limited English words. Then I remembered KTO's travel itinerary suggestion I printed and thought that this small gimbab store was the one she talked about.
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| Peeking into restaurant's gyori gimbab preparation. Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Peeking into the store inside through small window covered with mosquito net from the outside, I could see some women in their 40s were busy preparing the gimbab: spreading the dried seaweed sheet, layered it with cooked rice, then filling it with cucumber, crab meat, cucumber and egg strips, rolling them once in the end.
The gimbab restaurant was undeniable locals' favorite and a must-try. The line-up has never ended before it opened in the morning and before it closed in the afternoon, I recalled. The restaurant opened at 08:30 AM local time and finally I had my chance to buy this gyori gimbab. I selected a place to sit that gave me nice surrounding like hanok houses and flowers where none tourists occupied the site.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Gyochon Traditional Village, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Fine with three bites of gimbab, I returned to my guesthouse to checkout before they penalized me after 11:00 AM. I left my luggage at the reception desk and headed to Bulguksa Temple, less than an hour bus drive from the guesthouse I stayed last night.
Accidentally seeing two local tourists taking picture among the autumn's yellow leaves was the most unforgettable sweet memory I had when visiting Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju. There was an honest cheerful moment of the long-awaited autumn I caught from them. Red maple leaves, stone stacking and antique colored flower icons on the temple’s wooden ceiling were also nice. It was undeniably hard to snap a picture perfect of a postcard around the temple complex as so many tourists crowded the place. I always felt sorry to find myself in a temple full of tourists thus as if the chance to grasp the sacredness slipped out from my hands.
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| Two local tourists taking photo among autumn leaves at Bulguksa Temple. Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Stone arrangement at Bulguksa Temple. Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Bulguksa Temple on the slopes of Mount Tohamsan, UNESCO's World Heritage Convention said, forms a religious architectural complex of exceptional significance. It is a Buddhist temple complex, designed to represent the land of Buddha, comprising a series of wooden buildings on raised stone terraces. Material expression of Buddhist belief is clearly expressed in this outstanding religious architecture flourished in Gyeongju.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| If only the leaves turned all red and yellow that autumn at the temple. Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
"The masonry structures within Bulguksa have maintained their original form, having undergone only partial repair. The wooden buildings have been repaired and restored several times since the 16th century. All restoration work and repairs have been based on historical research and have employed traditional materials and techniques"
Those hidden corners missed by lots of tourists at Bulguksa Temple left a beautiful impression in my eyes. It was quite an effort making promenade by the same time trying to escape from people invading that popular tourism site in Gyeongju. From a far, peeking the temple's roof among small red maple leaves, admiring stones sacredly arranged by the prayer beside a smaller temple, and amazed by traditional Korean decorative patterns namely Dancheong on the temple's constructed wood ceiling were a rewarding gift I had from Bulguksa Temple's trip I made.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
These beautiful five-colored designs, dancheong patterns, practically serve to prolong the life of the building besides of beauty and majesty's function. Dancheong protects the wood from the wind, rain and vermin that can cause rotting. The vibrant and bright colors the patterns possessed are believed to expel any evil spirit approaching the building.
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (Bulguksa Temple, Oct. 29, 2017) |
I shouldn't waste my time too much at the temple remembering I haven't visited Choi family's old house because it hasn't been opened yet the early morning I came to Gyochon. Thus, I ended my trip at Bulguksa and headed back to Gyochon by bus and trapped in such horrible traffic jam on Sunday's noon.
Scorching sun rays were covering Gyochon Traditional Village by the time I arrived there for the second time that day. There was such a shocking view I almost couldn't believe my own eyes: crowded people, bins full of trashes –too many trashes that they couldn't accommodate, air full of dusts and so noisy because of many people chattering. I was so glad I came to Gyochon early in the morning.
Never mind, I said. I had to check Choi family's old house and hope to caught good angles for their hanok house pictures.
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Built around 1700, the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family offers a glimpse at the lifestyle and architecture of the Joseon era, said Daegu Tourist Information website. The illustrious Choi family has kept enormous wealth through 12 generation and the house itself, also preserves typical noble-class housing, was said to cover the largest space granted by the king during the Joseon Dynasty, i.e. 99 kan. It was so unfortunate I couldn't look inside Gyeongju's Choi clan hanok main house. Visitors can only wander at the yard.
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Choi family's old house in Gyeongju, well-situated on the grounds full of sunshine alongside Namcheon river and backed by the Wolseong Palace, consists of a Saranchae (men's living quarters or detached house), an Anche (women's living quarters or main building), a Munganche (servants' living quarters), a Sadang (shrine) and a Gobang (storage quarters).
While trying to find good angle for my hanok house photo as a foreign visitor, the house caretaker then approached me and asked, "From Malaysia?" I smiled, shook my head and said, "Nope, from Indonesia." I thought that because Indonesia is well-known for the largest Muslim population in a country, seeing me with headscarf, I misheard him asking, "Do you have Christians?" I was about to answer, "Yes we do have Christians, Catholics, Buddhists, Hindus, Confucians. Atheists too." Apparently he asked, "Do you have questions?" His pronunciation fooled my hearing.
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
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| Nilufar's private photo (the estate of Gyeongju's Choi family, Oct. 29, 2017) |
There is a brewery located next door of the Choi house. Gyeongju Gyodong Bupju, that's how it's called, brews the Gyeongju's Choi family traditional alcohol, bupju. The brewer named this signature alcohol as bupju or "law alcohol" because he has to keep an exact time and recipe to make the rice wine's right taste. I didn't drink Gyeongju's Gyodong bupju liquor, the traditional liquor from the city. There was nothing much either to see at the brewer's house. It was so restricted-exploration activity other than buying the rice wine in front of the house.
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| Nilufar's private photo (lemon tree at Gyeongju's Gyodong Bupju brewery, Oct. 29, 2017) |
Time for me to say goodbye to Gyeongju was almost there. I walked in less than 10 minutes to the train station from my hostel and bought one-way ticket to Busan, my next destination before I flew to Jeju Island from there.
If my supervisor had given me green light to have more day offs, I would have spared myself another day in Gyeongju for an archaeological vacation to an excavated typical Silla's upper class underground mounded chamber Daereungwon Tomb Complex, and Yangdong Village, Korea's traditional village surrounded by beautiful natural scenery showcasing Joseon Dynasty's culture realizing I also have favorable amount of passion about history, tradition and culture.
It would've been a not-so-bad choice to have a peek at a Silla-themed park Shilla Millennium Park which has the first Korean hanok hotel in Korea and gains popularity after two Korean dramas "Boys over Flowers" and "Queen Seondeok" back in 2009.
It's true I missed those places because I didn't find any detailed information beforehand and undeniably I had limited time to spend in South Korea but I didn't have any regret. Getting there in the evening and leave the city tomorrow's afternoon was good enough and such a wise choice.
Blueboat Hostel Gyeongju
Gyeongju-si, 2F, 125-2, Hwango-dong, Gyeongju-si
Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea
blueboat-hostel.com
blueboat.g@gmail.com
Photos of Blueboat Hostel's kitchen and dining room I took when I stayed there for a night:
To reach the hostel from Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal
Take local bus no. 10/100-1/150/150-1/600/608 or 609 at the bus stop in front of Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, get off at Gyeongju-yeok bus stop;
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| The bus stop where I got off to reach Blueboat Hostel, also which I waited for the bus taking me to Bulguksa Temple. Nilufar's private photo (Gyeongju, October 2017) |
Go straight towards Gyeongju Train Station, cross the traffic lights and then turn right;
Go straight towards CU Convenience Store until you find a bakery shop. There is a recognizable icon of white classic sailing boat with dark blue background on the shop house;
Use the stairs beside the bakery shop to reach the hostel on the second floor.
To reach Bulguksa Temple from Blueboat Hostel
Take local bus no. 10, 11 or 700, get off at "Bulguksa" bus stop. It will take you about 45 minutes to reach there without traffic.
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