A two-night short Autumn trip in South Korea's Jeju

Two beach chairs and Seongsang Ilchul-bong in the Autumn's morning
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Jeju Island's appeal lies on its bounty of beautiful natural treasures: inhale fresh air at the top of the incredible tuff cone Seongsang Ilchul-bong, cool down myself inside a 7-kilometer natural refrigerator's Manjanggul lava tube and pose among beautiful autumn wild silver grass at Sangumburi Crater like in a Korean drama's romantic scene.

For a solo traveler me who depended on taking local buses to reach Jeju's tourist sites, I should have spent more days instead of only two nights in this "Hawaii of South Korea" island. Tourist attractions, except Teddy Bear Museum, close at 6 PM but the bus rarely showed up while the distance from one site to another site was very far away. In my experience, I had to wait for more than an hour and it took me another two hours to get to my next stop. It kind of reminded me of my own country's transportation problem.

It's fine not to rent a car plus a driver which would cost me higher when travelling around Jeju but I should have spent more days, a week perhaps, if I had had a long list of sites to see and natural beauties to explore.

Per day, I could only visit two places with reasonable time spent at each place because, as I said before, I had to wait for hours to get the bus and spend another hours to reach the site. The key word is research which I didn't do much.

Dried flowers at the peak of Seongsang Ilchul-bong in the Autumn's morning
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

If I had found a three-part article by J.M.G. Le Clezio earlier (Caught by the charms of Jeju, People of the lava and Defined by the sea) and my friend, who is now in Tokyo and keep in touch via social media now, had told me about Architecture 101 Korean movie set in Jeju before I booked my flight to Jeju, I would've made an in depth research, decided what sites I wanted to visit and planned my travel by public transportation efficiently.

One thing I found quite happy about my trip there was the guesthouse which also provided free book about cooking Korean popular dish. That guesthouse where I stayed for two nights was located very close to the central bus terminal, even within walking distance, and less than 15 minutes to reach the airport.

Long coffee table adjacent to the window at YEHA Guesthouse
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

What I liked most from that guesthouse was their long coffee table attached to the window. The ordinary scene I saw behind the window, pedestrians around the neighborhood, while slowly enjoying my cup of self-made coffee milk in the evening was sweet. That spot became my self-proclaimed territory in an instant. I would find myself sitting at the same spot every evening after I returned from the sites I visited in a day.

After a night in Jeju doing nothing, I decided to finally start my trip with the huge crater at the top of Seongsang Ilchul-bong located on the eastern end of the island.It took me two hours from the central bus station to reach the site.

Seongsang Ilchul-bong and the beach with black sand
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Silver grass near Seongsang Ilchul-bong
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Seongsang Ilchul-bong commonly translated as Sunrise Peak has proper stone pathway and wooden stairs along the hiking trail. I managed to climb and reach the peak wearing my comfortable sneakers for about thirty minutes.

Blue wild flowers near Seongsang Ilchul-bong
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

As I reached the crater's top hill, there I was presented by a beautiful town landscape and infinite sea seen from above. I heard that in the spring, bright yellow canola flowers surround the Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak making it as a truly romantic sight to witness. I went there in the autumn. Thankfully, I still had an opportunity to witness the romantic scene there in autumn. It was just so unfortunate that I saw neither sunrise nor sunset over the sea from the uphill. I think, this is my regret.

Jeju city as seen from above Seongsang Ilchul-bong
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Yellow flowers near the entrance of Seongsang Ilchul-bong
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

There were so many beautiful scenes around Seongsang Ilchul-bong. I was lucky to captures some nice photos. I planned to continue with Jeju's stone park before visiting Sangumburi but the reality of the long-awaited bus hadn't come though I waited for two hours forced me to cancel my plan and decided to go straight to Sangumburi that day. It was about an hour trip by bus from Seongsang Ilchul-bong.  

Restricted access at Seongsang Ilchul-bong
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Silver grass below clear blue sky in the Autumn at Sangumburi
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Sangumburi crater's slopes are filled by Jeju's famous gray Eulalia flowers in the autumn, swayed in the breeze, said an article about Jeju. I probably just passed these flowers without even noticed its fame as taking a stroll at the area and seeing verdant scene spread in front calmed my weary me.

A natural open space at Sangumburi in Jeju
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

There was an ancient Jeju legend about two young star-crossed lovers who lived in the Sangumburi crater after they eloped from the lady father who disapproved of her love relationship. The girl, daughter of Jeju god, named Maljatddal fell in love with the star boy namely Hangam. He was called as Hanbyeol too. However, as the time went by, happiness didn't last between the couple anymore and finally Maljatddal left Hangam. Left behind alone, Hangam occupied himself tending animals inside the crater. Later he was honored as the guardian of island's animals and hunters by the people of Jeju.

In South Korea, there are several places well-known for their expansive, beautiful views of silver grass. Sangumburi is one of them.

Sangumburi's silver grass trail in Jeju
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

The air was cool. If my heart had been captured by someone, I would have done our date nicely there by taking a long stroll together and had the Autumn wind as my excuse to walk a little bit closer to him and stolen his jacket when I needed another layer.

Ending my solo trip on the second day, I had few minutes at O'Sulloc Tea Museum which I only skimmed the first floor and bought some souvenirs from their official shop before it closed at 6 PM. I didn't have much time to walk around the Seogwang Tea Garden either because it had already been dark.

The exterior of O'Sulloc Tea Museum in Jeju
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

The right side of O'Sulloc Tea Museum in Jeju
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Ideally, if I had had much time in Jeju, I would have had opportunity to closely appreciate verdant tea fields set upon rolling hills and the shoulder of an oreum. I imagined the peaceful-and-quite green plantation also gave fresh breeze. I also would have had more time to examine the museum's contemporary-looking building thought to be in the shape of a giant teacup. The museum itself, said one blogger, provided a fascinating glimpse into of world of Korean tea and elegant tea ceremonies from around the world. More importantly, I wouldn't have missed the widely-reviewed by bloggers, green tea roll cakes and lattes.

Tea leaves at the tea plantation in front of O'Sulloc Tea Museum
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Giant tea cup in front of tea plantation in front of O'Sulloc Tea Museum
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

At least, I felt satisfied enough to finally visited three places in one day because I wouldn't have more time to spend in Jeju, I had to fly back to Seoul the next day. Still, I made a bet for the last site I visited in the next morning. 

Manjanggul Cave Drama

The night before and early morning, my roommate had warned me not to miss my flight because I could forget my own time enjoying Manjanggul Cave in solitude. I reminded myself about it but I didn't calculate the time spent to reach the site with rare bus schedule and so many stops it made, not to mention how remote the place was located. If those two nice-and-kind oppa (big brother) hadn't stopped their car and helped the despaired me arranging taxi to the airport, I wouldn't have been in Jakarta now updating my blog.

I almost cursed my decision to take that bet by going to this UNESCO World Heritage's Manjanggul Cave (182, Manjanggul-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-do) which maintains its temperature between 11 to 21 Celcius degrees and offers stone pillars, stalactites, stalagmites and lava tube tunnels inside.

At the site's parking lot, all taxis were actually booked taxis so they couldn't take me to the bus terminal. The same illegal no-meter taxi who took me to the site refused to take me to the bus terminal saying it was too far for him and insisted only driving me to Manjanggul Cave Bus Stop only. I didn't have any choice and paid another KRW 4000. As I arrived at the bus stop and found neither bus nor taxi, I began begging hitchhiking in desperate.

End of lava tube tunnel inside the Manjanggul Cave
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

There was this lonely bus stop, 2.5 kilometers away from Manjanggul Cave, on that high speed traffic highway with no access to adjacent property. Standing with great worry at that bus stop, was me. I was stranded. My heart told me not to worry about anything but cold creeps rose along my skin under my long-sleeved purple jacket. No buses nor taxis were in sight when I was in great need that morning. I had to catch my plane and I was running out of time.

A woman driving her sedan simply passed without noticing me who pleaded her to stop. A truck driver ignored me knowing I asked him for a ride and again another sedan just continued going and left me behind. I was crying in fear of continuing on like this. I felt my heart was in my throat. I had to get away. I couldn’t stay on that road anymore.

When my life was on the verge of (even though not) death, a nice-and-kind good looking oppa (it's how a girl refer to her trusted older brother in Korean culture) driving with his friend stopped his car and gave me a ride out of highway tried finding me a taxi but in vain. He tried to calm and convince me while still driving that I wouldn't miss my flight.

He called taxi company many times and still nothing because the site was quite remote. He drove me again further, hoped there would be a taxi driver who could take me from that unknown main road but still nothing in sight. His friend continued calling taxi company while this oppa was driving and looking for a passing taxi on the road. Finally, after another few kilometers, the taxi company informed him that a taxi was close to him and could take me from the road near a building hall, far away from Manjanggul site.

I was still sitting inside his car, waiting, and got off when the taxi stopped in front of him. He explained to the taxi driver to first drive me to my guesthouse and then to the airport.

He also gave me 10000 KRW for the taxi out from his pocket after he asked "Do you have enough Korean Won?" He misheard me I had 15000 when I said 50000 Korean Won. However, I didn't refuse his kindness and thanked him sincerely from the bottom of my heart. I felt like as if I was in a Korean drama. The poor girl had just been saved by the male protagonist.

The 10000 Korean Won Oppa gave me for taxi
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

My Jeju in a nutshell 

Arrived at Jeju Airport, waiting for bus # 315 at Gate 2 located on the first floor later getting off at Hankook Hospital, check-in at YEHA Guesthouse. Relaxed myself with latte at the dining room before refreshing myself and sleeping. Having latte makes myself feel better.

My own latte every night at the guest house
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

Day two, I went to Seongsang Ilchul-bong in the morning. It's a crown-like inactive volcano mountain with sharp rocks surrounding the crater at its peak located on the eastern end of Jeju Island (284-12, Ilchul-ro, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si). Starting at the Jeju's intercity bus terminal, I went by bus # 110-2. From bus station at the Seongsang Ilchul-bong, bus #210-2 took me to Sangumburi Crater. I went back to my guesthouse and continued to O'Sulloc Tea Museum from that morning's intercity bus terminal, taking bus # 250. 

At the mouth of Manjanggul Cave in Jeju
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

The last day, I thought to still have time to visit Manjanggul Cave but the bus came at 9 AM and the trip was two and a half hours to arrive at Manjanggul Cave bus stop. From Jeju's intercity bus terminal, slow bus (I forgot which number) dropped me off at Manjanggul bus stop. I had to take illegal no-meter taxi and paid 4000 KRW from that bus stop because the site was still at another 2.5 kilometers ahead. Finally seeing the famous Jeju's natural monument, I was about to miss my flight back to Seoul until two young men helped taking me out from the remote area and arranged taxi to my guesthouse and then to the airport.

I thank you God for sending me safely back to Seoul, though the weather was gloomy and drizzling by the time I finally set my feet at Gimpo International Airport after my own unforgettable Korean drama.

Rain drops in Seoul as seen from an airplane's window
private photo of Nilufar, South Korea, 2017

YEHA Guesthouse
561-17, Samdo 1-dong, Jeju-si
South Korea, 690-812
Phone (064)724 5506 or 070 4012 0083
Female dorm (KRW 19000/night)

Free breakfast and free drinks during happy hour